Ugly Chic: Why Fashion’s Biggest Trend is Breaking the Rules

By Bennett Ismert

Fashion has long been defined by aesthetics — flattering silhouettes, complementary colors, symmetry, simplicity, and a widely accepted sense of beauty dictated by societal norms. But in recent years, a rebellion has emerged, challenging these engrained ideas. The rise of “ugly” fashion isn’t about laziness or a lack of fashion sense, but rather intentional rejection of traditional beauty standards — embracing the unconventional, the exaggerated, the unexpected.

Designers and consumers alike are celebrating the avant-garde, proving that fashion isn’t just about looking put-together — it’s about making a statement and showcasing individuality. Schiaparelli, my current favorite designer, created a perfect example of this bold expression through one of their FW24 collection pieces, “The Phoenix”,  which made waves for its distinctive structure and sculpture-like appearance. It radiates power, featuring gilded, wing-like shoulders that emulate armor — a phoenix rising from the ashes. Its dramatic silhouette and metallic sheen intertwine couture and art, embodying the resilience its name suggests. Growing up, I was told that such outlandish pieces were “unladylike” or “improper,” but as a 22-year-old who holds a deep appreciation for true fashion, I was mesmerized. 

This revolution is deeply intertwined with identity and cultural expression. Many designers incorporate elements of their own background or personal experiences into their work, using fashion as a medium for storytelling. Virgil Abloh often blurred the lines between high fashion and streetwear, adopting industrial elements and overstated proportions to redefine luxury. His Off-White quotation-mark motifs and incorporation of zip-ties challenge traditional fashion branding, while his Louis Vuitton FW19 collection drew inspiration from urban wear and hip-hop culture, paying homage to Michael Jackson. His designs didn’t meet the traditional standards of “beautiful,” but they carried cultural weight, symbolizing fashion that prioritizes meaning over conformity.



One of the most notable examples of this movement is Nike’s “Air Rift” shoe, which draws inspiration, both in terms of name and design, from Kenyan barefoot runners in Great Rift Valley. While some critics ridiculed its split-toe and unusual structure, the design carries cultural significance, pushing back against modern ideals of footwear.





The “ugly” fashion movement also serves as a critique of consumerism. Traditional fashion often relies on fast trend cycles that prioritize mass appeal, while unconventional designs resist these pressures, favoring creativity over viability and access. When designers like Gareth Pugh craft garments that are deliberately asymmetrical, deconstructed, or imperfect, they are making a statement against the uniformity of mass production and consumption. These designs encourage shoppers to appreciate fashion as an art form  — an intentional choice  — rather than a fleeting commodity.

Social media has played a crucial role in both the rise and polarization of “ugly” fashion. On platforms like Instagram and TikTok, unconventionality is amplified, celebrated by some for its innovation and ridiculed by others who see it as absurd. The virality of fashion in the digital age has led to an awakening of experimentation, where designers can take risks knowing that their work will reach an audience — whether in admiration or debate. This exposure helps make fashion more accessible, allowing independent designers with niche styles and visions to garner exposure without needing approval from big-name industry brands.

Public reception to this shift has been debated. While some celebrate the freedom it embodies, others dismiss it as impractical or unwearable. However, its very existence challenges the idea that fashion must always be traditionally attractive or meet societal standards. By welcoming bold forms, unpredictable materials, and cultural references, “ugly” fashion reclaims creative autonomy in an industry often stifled by commercial expectations. In doing so, it transforms clothing from mere adornment into an act of resistance that refuses to conform to outdated ideals of what fashion should be.

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the battle between expectation and self-expression remains at its core. Whether one sees “ugly” fashion as revolutionary or preposterous, it undeniably pushes the conversation forward. By resisting societal pressures and accepting creativity, this movement encourages us to reconsider not just what we wear, but why we wear it. ■